Annecy: Retour des Alpages

Annecy is a cute and relatively well-known town about an hour and a half train ride from Grenoble.  It sits along the edge of Lake Annecy in the mountains and is known for its little, colorful houses lining tight streets and winding canals.  Every fall, the town holds a celebration called 'Retour des Alpages' or 'Back from the Alpine Pastures' where the local farmers and herdsmen bring their animals down from the summer pastures located high in the mountains.  The town celebrates with a parade of animals, people dressed in tradition costume, song, and dance.  It's a festive and popular parade with people packed together along the streets throughout the parade route in town.  Besides the parade, there are also plenty of market stands to pick up local and handmade goods, as well as sample the delicious, local fare.  During the fall, the tradition potato and cheese dishes like tartiflette and raclette come out. There are also yummy sausages called diot, roasted chestnuts, and plenty of vin chaud or mulled wine. 

Here's a sampling of pictures from my second time at the Retour des Alpages in October 2016.

2016 in Review

Hello readers,

It's been some time since I've shared my adventures with you! My schedule and job kept me quite busy during the last couple months and I was trying to stay on top of everything, but unfortunately let my blog go by the wayside. I expect to have a little more time for adventure and reflection this next semester and will try to keep you more up to date!

So this is the time of year when I traditionally take some time to reflect on the ups and the downs, the adventures, the friends, and the ins and outs of my year.  I had an exciting year, and here are some of the main events of 2016:

• I brought in the year surrounded by the red rocks of Moab, Utah
• I fell in love with Grenoble, France (the city, the surroundings, my friends, my job, opportunities for new adventures, and the lifestyle)
• I worked only abroad (never in the USA)
• I taught English to students from age 17 to 60, and gave them real grades for their transcripts
• I was paid to translate an interesting family history from French to English 
• I skiied in the Alps on my own skis
• I started climbing and bouldering
• I spent a few days exploring outdoor bouldering in the world-class area of Fontainbleau
• I experienced a French hospital
• I drank champagne in Champagne
• I spent various weekends with friends skiing, camping, dancing, and enjoying each other's company
• I had class cancelled due to national strikes
• I travelled in, through, and around Paris
• I moved into a little studio next to some of my best friends
• I carried furniture across a city, laughing the whole time
• I found many little treasures at thrift stores and had my picture taken for their promotional material
• I revisited Perpignan, Aix-en-Provence, and Cassis
• I visited my best friend in sunny San Diego
• I accompanied my mom on her tour guide trips in Denver and Rocky Mountain National Park
• I saw a play in French (the Count of Monte Cristo)
• I comforted friends through their disappointment and bewilderment of Brexit
• I voted for the U.S. Elections and couldn't believe the results
• I continued practicing love and respect over hate
• I drank vin chaud (mulled wine) at Christmas markets
• I saw the magical Fête des Lumières in Lyon
• I came home for the holidays

So it's been a busy year, and that's how I like it. I'm happy to have so much adventure. Yet what's been really special this year has been the people in my life. My family plays such an important role in who I am. It's been difficult being far away, but I've also found another family of my friends in Grenoble. I don't yet know what 2017 will bring. I know that I'll finish the school year working at Université Grenoble-Alpes, but that I'll need to find another opportunity once my contract finishes at the end of August.  There are different options; we'll just have to see what direction I go!

Spending time with my dad in the Rockies

Climbed my second 14er! 

Hiking in the calanques by Cassis, France

Exploring the passerrelles with Grenoble friends

Experiencing fancy Versailles

A student project being displayed at the university. I'm a proud teacher!

San Diego, California

Arches National Park, Utah

Happy Holidays everyone!

Sunny Southern Getaway

On Friday, I had my last departmental meeting at the university.  We gathered to officially approve the final grades for a last test that some students took.  Afterwards, my coworkers and I shared a potluck meal and celebrated the send-off of our director who is moving to another department next year.  It was a fun time, made all that much better knowing that I'll be coming back to continue another year as an English teacher at Université Grenoble-Alpes.  That's right! I just picked up my contract today and am working on my visa renewal to stay another year in Grenoble and in the same job.  It's been a bit of a tough situation for paperwork with my renewal, but I think it's worth it.  I find the job very rewarding and interesting.  I quickly grew to love Grenoble, which I fondly say could be Denver's equivalent in France with interesting and fun places to go in the city, all the while with easy access to the mountains and nature.  I've also made great friends this year, many of whom are returning next school year too.

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With summer on the horizon and a standstill for contract/ visa paperwork (until today), I decided to take a quick getaway starting Saturday.  In 2012, I studied in Aix-en-Provence and I hadn't returned there since.  It seemed like a nice opportunity to revisit the place I had called home for four months.  So, I found a cheap bus ticket and soon found myself in Aix on Saturday afternoon.  I met up with a Grenoble friend for coffee/ tea and wandering the streets.  I quickly saw that some things had changed while much remained the same.  I visited Aix's fountains, the winding streets, and yellow and orange buildings.  I walked past the cathedral sitting directly across from where I went to class and took familiar routes as if I was having déja vu.  

La Rotonde - Aix-en-Provence

Since my getaway was a bit of a last minute decision, I couldn't find too many good available hotels, and decided to try Couchsurfing.  Couchsurfing, if you don't know, is an online community of travelers where like-minded people offer a place to stay, a partner in crime for adventure, and the opportunity to find new connections in different cities.  I was hosted by an American guy living in Aix who is doing an internship to complete his Masters program.  His roommate was away so there was a spare bedroom all for me.  He was very kind and we hung out my first night in town, had dinner on a restaurant terrace, and went for a drink with his friends.

Mont Saint Victoire from the apartment window.

On Sunday, I was in the mood for a hike, and the place to do that in Aix is Mont Saint Victoire, the famous muse of the painter Paul Cezanne.  After a quick stop at the shop (I forgot to pack socks!), I caught a bus to the trailhead.  I took a trail up the back side of St. Victoire that was quite steep and winding.  Every so often, I could see the cross at the top peek between the trees.  It took a bit of effort, but eventually I made it to the top for an incredible view over the Provence countryside and Aix-en-Provence.  Feeling adventurous, I took a different route back that was less steep but definitely hotter with more sun.  This route lead back to an incredible blue lake held back by a large dam.  

Once back in Aix, I was feeling a bit hot and tired, so I rewarded myself with an ice cream and a little meandering before calling it an early night.

Heading down the ridge from St. Victoire

Looking back from the dam.

The next morning, I was continuing my adventure.  Before leaving Aix, I stopped by a crepe shop I had discovered during my studies for a delicious spinach and goat cheese crepe for lunch.  Then, I hopped on a bus and headed to the small coastal village of Cassis. 

Port of Cassis

Cassis was a special destination where I was meeting a couple friends from Grenoble that were cycling there.  But it was early and I had some time to spend.  I checked into my cute hostel by the port and went to explore.  I walked through the little streets, but quickly headed for the boats and beach.  Seeing that the main beach was really busy, I decided to continue on for a nice view up the hill and go to another rockier but more empty beach.  I was sidetrack by a soap shop along the way that gave a free little tour of their production space.  It was interesting learning about the different kinds of soap for the area as well as what goes into them.  I bought myself a little lotion that was promised to help skin conditions for everything from sunburn to acne.  So far, I have to say that it's lived up to its promise!

Beautiful beach stop.

Eventually I made it to the beach where I lounged in the sun for a couple hours.  Unfortunately, the water was much too cold to swim, but I was enjoying my time in the sun a lot.  Around that time, my friend called to say that the two of them would be arriving in the next hour or two.  I lazily packed up my things and headed back to my hostel for a quick shower and then walk along the port at sunset before meeting them for dinner and a football (soccer) match.  English and Iceland were playing in the Eurocup and it was a big game! The tiny country of Iceland won.  

Cassis at sunset.

The next morning I enjoyed breakfast on the terrace of my hostel before packing up my things and joining my friends at a different hostel where we'd be staying the second night.  There wasn't room for us the first night, but one of the friends I was with had worked at this hostel years ago and maintained a good relationship with the owner so we wanted to spend some time there.  I do have to say that this was the best hostel I've ever stayed in hands down.  It's the Cassis Hostel if anyone is wondering... It has a lot of character with books, eclectic decorations and travel ideas as well as a big kitchen and great outdoor patio.  However, the best part was the infinity pool looking over the bay! 

My friends and I decided this was a perfect day for another hike and we headed to the Calanques.  Described to me as somewhat like a fjord, the calanques are a series of inlets with crystal blue and green water surrounded by towering cliffs.  We explored the first three calanques, before giving into the sun and returning to find some water.  It was an absolutely stunning hike and a beautiful part of the world.  

The Calanques

Getting back into town, we stopped for ice cream (a scoop of salted caramel and a scoop of Snickers for me), then went to the store and bought the fixings for a delicious Mexican themed dinner that we made at the hostel.  It ended up being a great night with lots of food, delicious drinks (mojitos!), and talking with other travelers staying in the small hostel.  It was a perfect four-night getaway in the sunshine.  I can't wait to go back.

Paris Flooding 2016

Flooding of the Seine River in Paris made international news this last weekend.  The BBC reports that the flooding reached a peak at 20 feet (6.1m) and hundreds of towns and villages were affected.  Museums such at the Louvre and Musee d'Orsay were closed over the weekend in order to move precious artwork out of basement storage areas and several metro lines were temporarily closed.  All boat activity was suspended since there wasn't enough room to go beneath the bridges. 

I happened to be visiting Paris for a short weekend break and saw the flooding firsthand.  It was really quite incredible.  Streets and walkways along the Seine were completely covered.  In certain parts around the city, water was bubbling up from storm drains.  

However, in such a big city, life must go on, and on it went.  Many areas weren't affected by the flooding, and tourists were simply displaced to other tourist attractions throughout the city.  Luckily, the banks along the Seine river are mostly stone throughout the city of Paris, so there is minimal damage and things should return to normal within about a week or so.  However, other towns along the Seine outside of Paris may be facing much more time to deal with lost homes and businesses.  The French Prime Minister has announced that those people will be given "emergency help."  

All in all, it was an interesting time to be in Paris.  Between the flooding and continuous rail strikes that are happening in France on one hand and visiting friends, cultural visits, and culinary delights on the other, I can at least say that Paris keeps me on my toes!

Fontainebleau

My last school holiday had its ups and downs.  It started with a trip to the hospital where I discovered that the reason why my face had gotten so swollen in a couple days was due to a salivary gland infection... doesn't that sound gross?  Well thankfully that just required some antibiotics, plenty of mouthwash, good food and rest for a little while.  

Once I was feeling a little back on my feet again, I joined a group of friends in a place about 30 minutes south of Paris called Fontainebleau.  They had gone for a whole week, rented a gîte (holiday cottage), and planned on bouldering everyday.  While Fontainebleau is partly known for its large and impressive castle, it is also highly regarded for its bouldering opportunities.  The nearby, incredibly diverse forest is recognized as a national park and supposedly the site where the French climbing team trains, according to a friend.  It's quite a unique place, with many different options and opportunities. 

My first boulder.  Photo courtesy of K. Heidrich

For the two days that I was there, we went to two different, exciting locations.  The first is famously known as the Elephant Rock.  There is a large boulder resembling an elephant (sorry no picture of the elephant!), but this was also a really interesting place because there was sand, just like a beach!  This gave me my first taste of outdoor bouldering.  It was fun and scary!  Even climbing a few feet off the ground seemed nerve-wracking to me.  However, I'm pretty proud with what I accomplished.

Rockin' it. Photo courtesy of K. Heidrich

The second day was in more of an actual forest setting and had a route, rather than individual boulders like the first day.  The idea was to continue through the route of boulders, climbing up and down, without hanging out on the ground.  I'll admit, that I was already tired from the first day and wasn't pushing myself too hard, but it was fun to try something new and hang out with some good people.  

Hey foot! Photo courtesy of K. Heidrich

Besides climbing, it was great to get a bit into nature.  Our group would pack up for a day and hang out at a boulder site, have a picnic, slackline, and chat.  I felt encouraged and slightly pushed with what I was doing, but never overly stressed to complete something I wasn't comfortable with... which was a perfect compromise.  There were also a couple real good climbers who went, so it was fun to watch.  I definitely hope to return to this place.  It was so easy to fall in love with.

Friends. Photo courtesy of K. Heidrich

Visite en Champagne

A few weeks ago I took a short trip to Champagne country to taste some delicious bubbly and enjoy the sunshine.

I picked up my covoiturage (carpool) from Grenoble and in five hours arrived in the city of Reims (pronounced more like "ranse").  I lucked out with a few days of sunshine, which allowed me plenty of time for strolling the streets and discovering this small town.  I did a little shopping, sat on a terrace for a tea and dessert, and visited some of the local landmarks such as their beautiful cathedral. 

The highlight, however, was all about the champagne.  I tasted my first champagne with dinner the first night, but I was most excited about touring one of their famous champagne houses or caves on the second day in Reims.  Among all the local options including Taittinger, Lanson, Ruinart, Veuve Clicquot, and so many more, I decided to tour the Pommery estate. 

A short 20 minute walk from the very center of town,  we arrived at the gates of the Pommery estate.  After walking up the long driveway, we checked in for our tour.  Our tour quickly began and we descended into a labyrinth of tunnels devoted to the perfection and storage of champagne.  In all, we were told that there were 18 kilometers of tunnels devoted to Pommery.  We could see an old pully system on the ceiling used many years ago for transportation of their sought-after bottles, stacks of champagne bottles, and different types of storage areas.  A particular characteristic of this region is in fact that below ground, there are old dug out chalk pits.  That is where most of the champagne is stored and properly aged because it maintains a consistently cool temperature, perfect for creating a consistent product.  

Our tour completed, we had to taste some delicious bubbly.  While I may not know all about the different varieties of champagne and so forth, I do have to say that the one I tried at Pommery was pretty delicious!  It was a pretty perfect moment.

xo
Danielle

Grenoble Via Ferrata

There's this type of climbing sport in the region called the Via Ferrata.  A via ferrata is specifically a climbing route through mountainous, rocky areas made with a cable that you attach yourself to and metal hand- and footholds strategically placed along the route.  I'd say its a level above belay climbing, but a level below free climbing.  There are always handholds, but you attach yourself to the appropriate places.

This is the start!

In Grenoble, there is a via ferrata that climbs up to the Bastille.  I decided I wanted to try it.  Last Thursday was quite warm, so two friends and I decided to go for it.  One friend was experienced and even owned his own equipment, while the other was a beginner just like me.  We rented our equipment late on Thursday and headed towards the Bastille to check things out.

Scooting along the cable. Photo courtesy of P. Briggs

So there are three main pieces of equipment for the via ferrata.  First is a harness, just like with regular rock climbing.  The next is a unique two rope system with clips on the ends.  The ropes are quite short, about the length of my arm.  Basically you are attached to a cable on the rock face by these ropes.  There are two so that you always have at least one attached, even when changing and working around the cables.  The third piece of equipment is a helmet.  I have to be safe after all!

On the rock in the background. Photo courtesy of P. Briggs

So, the via ferrata ended up being pretty scary.  We climbed to great heights and were responsible for our own safety.  It's a free, open course for anyone to do, and with no one watching to make sure you're doing it right.  I think the scariest parts were going around curves/ corners where you had to straddle the rock.  Another scary part was scooting across a cable hanging high off the ground and finally a wood bridge.  The bridge itself wasn't scary, but my legs were a bit short and I had to do a major stretch over a void just to get onto it.

 So yeah, I got a bit scared, BUT I think I'd try it again! I think that now I know what to expect, it would be easier.  I guess there's quite a few different via ferrata courses in the area.  Maybe I'll have to try another!  Anyways, here's some pretty flowers from our walk aback down the hill; spring has sprung!