2016 in Review

Hello readers,

It's been some time since I've shared my adventures with you! My schedule and job kept me quite busy during the last couple months and I was trying to stay on top of everything, but unfortunately let my blog go by the wayside. I expect to have a little more time for adventure and reflection this next semester and will try to keep you more up to date!

So this is the time of year when I traditionally take some time to reflect on the ups and the downs, the adventures, the friends, and the ins and outs of my year.  I had an exciting year, and here are some of the main events of 2016:

• I brought in the year surrounded by the red rocks of Moab, Utah
• I fell in love with Grenoble, France (the city, the surroundings, my friends, my job, opportunities for new adventures, and the lifestyle)
• I worked only abroad (never in the USA)
• I taught English to students from age 17 to 60, and gave them real grades for their transcripts
• I was paid to translate an interesting family history from French to English 
• I skiied in the Alps on my own skis
• I started climbing and bouldering
• I spent a few days exploring outdoor bouldering in the world-class area of Fontainbleau
• I experienced a French hospital
• I drank champagne in Champagne
• I spent various weekends with friends skiing, camping, dancing, and enjoying each other's company
• I had class cancelled due to national strikes
• I travelled in, through, and around Paris
• I moved into a little studio next to some of my best friends
• I carried furniture across a city, laughing the whole time
• I found many little treasures at thrift stores and had my picture taken for their promotional material
• I revisited Perpignan, Aix-en-Provence, and Cassis
• I visited my best friend in sunny San Diego
• I accompanied my mom on her tour guide trips in Denver and Rocky Mountain National Park
• I saw a play in French (the Count of Monte Cristo)
• I comforted friends through their disappointment and bewilderment of Brexit
• I voted for the U.S. Elections and couldn't believe the results
• I continued practicing love and respect over hate
• I drank vin chaud (mulled wine) at Christmas markets
• I saw the magical Fête des Lumières in Lyon
• I came home for the holidays

So it's been a busy year, and that's how I like it. I'm happy to have so much adventure. Yet what's been really special this year has been the people in my life. My family plays such an important role in who I am. It's been difficult being far away, but I've also found another family of my friends in Grenoble. I don't yet know what 2017 will bring. I know that I'll finish the school year working at Université Grenoble-Alpes, but that I'll need to find another opportunity once my contract finishes at the end of August.  There are different options; we'll just have to see what direction I go!

Spending time with my dad in the Rockies

Climbed my second 14er! 

Hiking in the calanques by Cassis, France

Exploring the passerrelles with Grenoble friends

Experiencing fancy Versailles

A student project being displayed at the university. I'm a proud teacher!

San Diego, California

Arches National Park, Utah

Happy Holidays everyone!

Sunny Southern Getaway

On Friday, I had my last departmental meeting at the university.  We gathered to officially approve the final grades for a last test that some students took.  Afterwards, my coworkers and I shared a potluck meal and celebrated the send-off of our director who is moving to another department next year.  It was a fun time, made all that much better knowing that I'll be coming back to continue another year as an English teacher at Université Grenoble-Alpes.  That's right! I just picked up my contract today and am working on my visa renewal to stay another year in Grenoble and in the same job.  It's been a bit of a tough situation for paperwork with my renewal, but I think it's worth it.  I find the job very rewarding and interesting.  I quickly grew to love Grenoble, which I fondly say could be Denver's equivalent in France with interesting and fun places to go in the city, all the while with easy access to the mountains and nature.  I've also made great friends this year, many of whom are returning next school year too.

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With summer on the horizon and a standstill for contract/ visa paperwork (until today), I decided to take a quick getaway starting Saturday.  In 2012, I studied in Aix-en-Provence and I hadn't returned there since.  It seemed like a nice opportunity to revisit the place I had called home for four months.  So, I found a cheap bus ticket and soon found myself in Aix on Saturday afternoon.  I met up with a Grenoble friend for coffee/ tea and wandering the streets.  I quickly saw that some things had changed while much remained the same.  I visited Aix's fountains, the winding streets, and yellow and orange buildings.  I walked past the cathedral sitting directly across from where I went to class and took familiar routes as if I was having déja vu.  

La Rotonde - Aix-en-Provence

Since my getaway was a bit of a last minute decision, I couldn't find too many good available hotels, and decided to try Couchsurfing.  Couchsurfing, if you don't know, is an online community of travelers where like-minded people offer a place to stay, a partner in crime for adventure, and the opportunity to find new connections in different cities.  I was hosted by an American guy living in Aix who is doing an internship to complete his Masters program.  His roommate was away so there was a spare bedroom all for me.  He was very kind and we hung out my first night in town, had dinner on a restaurant terrace, and went for a drink with his friends.

Mont Saint Victoire from the apartment window.

On Sunday, I was in the mood for a hike, and the place to do that in Aix is Mont Saint Victoire, the famous muse of the painter Paul Cezanne.  After a quick stop at the shop (I forgot to pack socks!), I caught a bus to the trailhead.  I took a trail up the back side of St. Victoire that was quite steep and winding.  Every so often, I could see the cross at the top peek between the trees.  It took a bit of effort, but eventually I made it to the top for an incredible view over the Provence countryside and Aix-en-Provence.  Feeling adventurous, I took a different route back that was less steep but definitely hotter with more sun.  This route lead back to an incredible blue lake held back by a large dam.  

Once back in Aix, I was feeling a bit hot and tired, so I rewarded myself with an ice cream and a little meandering before calling it an early night.

Heading down the ridge from St. Victoire

Looking back from the dam.

The next morning, I was continuing my adventure.  Before leaving Aix, I stopped by a crepe shop I had discovered during my studies for a delicious spinach and goat cheese crepe for lunch.  Then, I hopped on a bus and headed to the small coastal village of Cassis. 

Port of Cassis

Cassis was a special destination where I was meeting a couple friends from Grenoble that were cycling there.  But it was early and I had some time to spend.  I checked into my cute hostel by the port and went to explore.  I walked through the little streets, but quickly headed for the boats and beach.  Seeing that the main beach was really busy, I decided to continue on for a nice view up the hill and go to another rockier but more empty beach.  I was sidetrack by a soap shop along the way that gave a free little tour of their production space.  It was interesting learning about the different kinds of soap for the area as well as what goes into them.  I bought myself a little lotion that was promised to help skin conditions for everything from sunburn to acne.  So far, I have to say that it's lived up to its promise!

Beautiful beach stop.

Eventually I made it to the beach where I lounged in the sun for a couple hours.  Unfortunately, the water was much too cold to swim, but I was enjoying my time in the sun a lot.  Around that time, my friend called to say that the two of them would be arriving in the next hour or two.  I lazily packed up my things and headed back to my hostel for a quick shower and then walk along the port at sunset before meeting them for dinner and a football (soccer) match.  English and Iceland were playing in the Eurocup and it was a big game! The tiny country of Iceland won.  

Cassis at sunset.

The next morning I enjoyed breakfast on the terrace of my hostel before packing up my things and joining my friends at a different hostel where we'd be staying the second night.  There wasn't room for us the first night, but one of the friends I was with had worked at this hostel years ago and maintained a good relationship with the owner so we wanted to spend some time there.  I do have to say that this was the best hostel I've ever stayed in hands down.  It's the Cassis Hostel if anyone is wondering... It has a lot of character with books, eclectic decorations and travel ideas as well as a big kitchen and great outdoor patio.  However, the best part was the infinity pool looking over the bay! 

My friends and I decided this was a perfect day for another hike and we headed to the Calanques.  Described to me as somewhat like a fjord, the calanques are a series of inlets with crystal blue and green water surrounded by towering cliffs.  We explored the first three calanques, before giving into the sun and returning to find some water.  It was an absolutely stunning hike and a beautiful part of the world.  

The Calanques

Getting back into town, we stopped for ice cream (a scoop of salted caramel and a scoop of Snickers for me), then went to the store and bought the fixings for a delicious Mexican themed dinner that we made at the hostel.  It ended up being a great night with lots of food, delicious drinks (mojitos!), and talking with other travelers staying in the small hostel.  It was a perfect four-night getaway in the sunshine.  I can't wait to go back.

Paris Flooding 2016

Flooding of the Seine River in Paris made international news this last weekend.  The BBC reports that the flooding reached a peak at 20 feet (6.1m) and hundreds of towns and villages were affected.  Museums such at the Louvre and Musee d'Orsay were closed over the weekend in order to move precious artwork out of basement storage areas and several metro lines were temporarily closed.  All boat activity was suspended since there wasn't enough room to go beneath the bridges. 

I happened to be visiting Paris for a short weekend break and saw the flooding firsthand.  It was really quite incredible.  Streets and walkways along the Seine were completely covered.  In certain parts around the city, water was bubbling up from storm drains.  

However, in such a big city, life must go on, and on it went.  Many areas weren't affected by the flooding, and tourists were simply displaced to other tourist attractions throughout the city.  Luckily, the banks along the Seine river are mostly stone throughout the city of Paris, so there is minimal damage and things should return to normal within about a week or so.  However, other towns along the Seine outside of Paris may be facing much more time to deal with lost homes and businesses.  The French Prime Minister has announced that those people will be given "emergency help."  

All in all, it was an interesting time to be in Paris.  Between the flooding and continuous rail strikes that are happening in France on one hand and visiting friends, cultural visits, and culinary delights on the other, I can at least say that Paris keeps me on my toes!

Fontainebleau

My last school holiday had its ups and downs.  It started with a trip to the hospital where I discovered that the reason why my face had gotten so swollen in a couple days was due to a salivary gland infection... doesn't that sound gross?  Well thankfully that just required some antibiotics, plenty of mouthwash, good food and rest for a little while.  

Once I was feeling a little back on my feet again, I joined a group of friends in a place about 30 minutes south of Paris called Fontainebleau.  They had gone for a whole week, rented a gîte (holiday cottage), and planned on bouldering everyday.  While Fontainebleau is partly known for its large and impressive castle, it is also highly regarded for its bouldering opportunities.  The nearby, incredibly diverse forest is recognized as a national park and supposedly the site where the French climbing team trains, according to a friend.  It's quite a unique place, with many different options and opportunities. 

My first boulder.  Photo courtesy of K. Heidrich

For the two days that I was there, we went to two different, exciting locations.  The first is famously known as the Elephant Rock.  There is a large boulder resembling an elephant (sorry no picture of the elephant!), but this was also a really interesting place because there was sand, just like a beach!  This gave me my first taste of outdoor bouldering.  It was fun and scary!  Even climbing a few feet off the ground seemed nerve-wracking to me.  However, I'm pretty proud with what I accomplished.

Rockin' it. Photo courtesy of K. Heidrich

The second day was in more of an actual forest setting and had a route, rather than individual boulders like the first day.  The idea was to continue through the route of boulders, climbing up and down, without hanging out on the ground.  I'll admit, that I was already tired from the first day and wasn't pushing myself too hard, but it was fun to try something new and hang out with some good people.  

Hey foot! Photo courtesy of K. Heidrich

Besides climbing, it was great to get a bit into nature.  Our group would pack up for a day and hang out at a boulder site, have a picnic, slackline, and chat.  I felt encouraged and slightly pushed with what I was doing, but never overly stressed to complete something I wasn't comfortable with... which was a perfect compromise.  There were also a couple real good climbers who went, so it was fun to watch.  I definitely hope to return to this place.  It was so easy to fall in love with.

Friends. Photo courtesy of K. Heidrich

Visite en Champagne

A few weeks ago I took a short trip to Champagne country to taste some delicious bubbly and enjoy the sunshine.

I picked up my covoiturage (carpool) from Grenoble and in five hours arrived in the city of Reims (pronounced more like "ranse").  I lucked out with a few days of sunshine, which allowed me plenty of time for strolling the streets and discovering this small town.  I did a little shopping, sat on a terrace for a tea and dessert, and visited some of the local landmarks such as their beautiful cathedral. 

The highlight, however, was all about the champagne.  I tasted my first champagne with dinner the first night, but I was most excited about touring one of their famous champagne houses or caves on the second day in Reims.  Among all the local options including Taittinger, Lanson, Ruinart, Veuve Clicquot, and so many more, I decided to tour the Pommery estate. 

A short 20 minute walk from the very center of town,  we arrived at the gates of the Pommery estate.  After walking up the long driveway, we checked in for our tour.  Our tour quickly began and we descended into a labyrinth of tunnels devoted to the perfection and storage of champagne.  In all, we were told that there were 18 kilometers of tunnels devoted to Pommery.  We could see an old pully system on the ceiling used many years ago for transportation of their sought-after bottles, stacks of champagne bottles, and different types of storage areas.  A particular characteristic of this region is in fact that below ground, there are old dug out chalk pits.  That is where most of the champagne is stored and properly aged because it maintains a consistently cool temperature, perfect for creating a consistent product.  

Our tour completed, we had to taste some delicious bubbly.  While I may not know all about the different varieties of champagne and so forth, I do have to say that the one I tried at Pommery was pretty delicious!  It was a pretty perfect moment.

xo
Danielle

Grenoble Via Ferrata

There's this type of climbing sport in the region called the Via Ferrata.  A via ferrata is specifically a climbing route through mountainous, rocky areas made with a cable that you attach yourself to and metal hand- and footholds strategically placed along the route.  I'd say its a level above belay climbing, but a level below free climbing.  There are always handholds, but you attach yourself to the appropriate places.

This is the start!

In Grenoble, there is a via ferrata that climbs up to the Bastille.  I decided I wanted to try it.  Last Thursday was quite warm, so two friends and I decided to go for it.  One friend was experienced and even owned his own equipment, while the other was a beginner just like me.  We rented our equipment late on Thursday and headed towards the Bastille to check things out.

Scooting along the cable. Photo courtesy of P. Briggs

So there are three main pieces of equipment for the via ferrata.  First is a harness, just like with regular rock climbing.  The next is a unique two rope system with clips on the ends.  The ropes are quite short, about the length of my arm.  Basically you are attached to a cable on the rock face by these ropes.  There are two so that you always have at least one attached, even when changing and working around the cables.  The third piece of equipment is a helmet.  I have to be safe after all!

On the rock in the background. Photo courtesy of P. Briggs

So, the via ferrata ended up being pretty scary.  We climbed to great heights and were responsible for our own safety.  It's a free, open course for anyone to do, and with no one watching to make sure you're doing it right.  I think the scariest parts were going around curves/ corners where you had to straddle the rock.  Another scary part was scooting across a cable hanging high off the ground and finally a wood bridge.  The bridge itself wasn't scary, but my legs were a bit short and I had to do a major stretch over a void just to get onto it.

 So yeah, I got a bit scared, BUT I think I'd try it again! I think that now I know what to expect, it would be easier.  I guess there's quite a few different via ferrata courses in the area.  Maybe I'll have to try another!  Anyways, here's some pretty flowers from our walk aback down the hill; spring has sprung!

Easter Ski Weekend

I've been getting outdoorsy a bit lately.  For my 3-day Easter weekend, I joined a university group and headed to the mountains.  

Beautiful day skiing in the Alps! Photo courtesy of K. Heidrich.

On Saturday morning, I arrived bright and early to join the bus traveling from campus to les Deux Alpes.  After sleeping most of the way up, we arrived at the resort, dropped off our bags, and headed for the pistes (slopes).  It was a beautiful, sunny day and quite warm out.  The skiing was the best at the top of the mountain on the glacier.  I took things a little bit easy since I'm still recovering from a twisted ankle, but everything went just fine.  We met up with more friends for lunch, which we enjoyed with some vin chaud sitting outside under the sunshine.  Towards the end of the day, the sun was getting quite strong and the snow was becoming a bit too slushy.  We stopped skiing for a while and went to hang out at the apres-ski destination, which was a party on top of the mountain, complete with DJ and people dressed in silly outfits.

Pano Bar on top of the mountain

Our ski day was coming to a close, but our evening was only beginning.  A group of six of us decided to save a little money and make dinner together at our rented apartment.  It was great to sit and hang out over dinner.  Our evening continued with some card games, and eventually we decided to join the crowd for a night out.  It was very fun and we ended up dancing the night away.

The next morning came early, and looking outside we discovered the mountain was covered in a blizzard.  From our little apartment, we couldn't even see the slopes just across the way.  Research told us that the intense weather would continue all day, so we decided to call it and not ski.  Instead, we ended up watching Friends (in French) and exploring the ski village.  Towards the end of the day, the whole university group was invited out for ice skating.  That was lots of fun, with people dressing up, showing off, and learning how to skate.  It was another fun night.

Ice skating! Photo courtesy of P. Briggs.

The next day was our last, so we headed back onto the slopes, stopping for an afternoon BBQ, before joining the bus back to campus.  We got the perfect seats at the front on the top of a double-decker bus.  There were beautiful views the whole way.  

Grenoble looking good.

I really enjoyed my weekend.  I feel like I got to know my friends even better and made some new ones along the way.  Grenoble and the people here are great.  I'm really feeling at home!

Day Trip to Vizille

Day Trippin! Today, I took a short excursion to Vizille, a commune south of Grenoble.

I was feeling like getting out of Grenoble and exploring something new for the day.  Being in France, there is so much history to learn everywhere you go.  Well, I didn't really know where to go, and I hadn't gotten any great suggestions, so Google was my friend.  After Googling "chateau near Grenoble," I found this perfect opportunity.  It was a castle, museum, park, and animal reserve all wrapped into one!

My friend Katie decided to join me for this excursion.  We met at the bus station around 1pm to hop on the express Grenoble - Vizille bus.  A quick 40 minute ride dropped us off at an empty bus stop in a place we didn't know.  We got a bearing of our surroundings and decided to walk towards what looked like the center of the village, and quickly figured out we were heading the right direction.  A map showed us heading towards a big castle and park.  We continued along, spying a castle tower along the way and soon arrived at the castle gates.  We went right through and were welcome by a beautiful site of green, grassy lawns stretching out towards the far mountain.  People were strolling around the grounds, a couple boys were kicking a soccer ball back and forth, and swans and ducks were waiting for bread being thrown by an older couple.

We decided to first explore the free museum located inside the castle.  It was a museum all about the French Revolution.  There was a lot that I didn't understand or remember from my history lessons, but it was very cool.  We saw sabres, wall-sized paintings depicting battles, deaths, and liberty, busts, extracts from films depicting the arrival of Napoleon in Grenoble and more.  

This funny painting shows a joker.  He's enjoying himself.

Parts of the museum also showed the history of the building itself.  It was owned by a rich family by the name of Perier, but was also famously the home of several French presidents, the latest being Charles de Gaulle.  I can understand why a president would enjoy this castle and grounds; it was a very peaceful and beautiful place.  

After a couple hours in the well-maintained and interesting museum, we ventured out of the castle for some fresh air.  I really came to understand why a friend had told us to bring a picnic.  It would be the perfect place on a sunny day.  The grounds were really large and varied.  There were perfect pyramid topiaries, large expanses of closely cut grass, and various trees lining the paths.  Our path took us back to an area where animals were kept.  Unfortunately, we were running out of time before everything closed, so we didn't have enough time to explore all the way, but we did see some interesting deer (if that's the right word) with large antlers.  Also on a separate path back towards the entrance, we glimpsed some carved wood modern statues.  

This is a place to which I'm sure I'll return.  I can't wait for the perfect sunny day with blue skies to return with a picnic of wine, cheese, and bread to lounge in the sun with my friends.

A last picture from Vizille (not the castle or grounds but the small city itself).  I came across this painted on the sidewalk... It's a play on words to say "walkway NOT poopway" or simply, "This is a place to walk, not to leave your dog poop."  It's a really problem in some places in France where people let their dogs poop all of the sidewalk and streets since there's not as much grass in cities, but here it was quite clean!

Lille: A Short Escape

I love traveling.  I know -- that's quite obvious.  Sometimes I enjoy traveling for long periods of time and other times a little getaway is all I need.  

Well last week, I decided to take a little, one-night getaway to explore a new city.  I went to Lille.  Lille is in the very north of France, near Belgium.  It has a bit of Flemish influence, which can be seen in Vieux Lille, the oldest part of town.  

Upon arrival after my train delay, my boyfriend and I checked into our AirBnb apartment (very convenient to the train station) and went out to explore.  Rather than set specific destinations our first day, we decided to simply walk.  I think that exploring a place on foot without an idea of what a place is supposed to be is great.   We walked ourselves in circles a few times - the city is NOT in a grid pattern.  We discovered a cathedral.  We found a grassy area surrounded by various architectural styles.  We sat for tea.  We headed towards the citadel, only to turn around at the entrance since it was closed and actually used by the military.  We strolled through a park as the sun set.  Really, we just enjoyed being together. 

After a while, we decided it was time to eat.  We ended up at an Italian inspired restaurant and I chose a delicious spinach and ricotta ravioli with a creamy veggie and pumpkin sauce.  It was great!

Deciding the night wasn't quite over, we headed to the movies before finally calling it a night.

The next morning, we started by going to the art museum (Palais des Beaux Arts).  It was huge (actually the second largest art museum in France outside of Paris).  Our tickets came with audio guides so we played the part and walked around the museum with our headphones, learning about some interesting pieces.  My favorites were the statues and the Impressionist paintings.  

By afternoon, the rain had arrived. My little umbrella couldn't hold up to it, so we ended up jumping from one place to the next for lunch, tea, and shopping.  I also tried a delicious little treat (too bad I forgot to take a picture) that was a fluffy poof with whipped cream and hardened meringue inside covered by chocolate outside.  I would definitely have that again!

We spent our last hour at a large shopping mall where we were protected from the rain.  We got into a little mischief at the Lego store and I made a mini-me.  It may not have been a very "Lille" afternoon, but at least we enjoyed ourselves!  It was a perfect little vacation.